first generation apple farmers
Kordick Family Farm is a mother-daughter operation that was founded in 2009, when we planted our first 850 apple trees in Stokes County, NC. We primarily grow heirloom and regional apple varieties, with several grafted from local sources (you won’t find any HoneyCrisp apples on this farm). We are continually experimenting in our efforts to be as holistic as possible in practice.
At a time when most commercial orchards are moving towards high-density dwarf variety plantings of trees, our semi-dwarf trees…
…are huge by current standards, the kind of tall, sprawling trees that used to be the norm in American orchards. Growing to about 20 feet high and spaced about 16 feet apart, they require ladders to pick the fruit, but aesthetically, we just like big apple trees that you can climb in, as well as the idea that they will be here long after we’re gone. And practically-speaking, our large trees are much more hardy and self-reliant than dwarf varieties, which is always a plus in a two-person operation.
In recent years, we have expanded our apple orchard to include about 1,800 trees total, representing about 175 different apple varieties. We also have a small pear orchard and handfuls of other fruits, including peaches, plums, figs, che fruit, and blackberries, planted on the farm. In coming years, we will be expanding our pear planting, and are always interested in adding more tree fruits (some familiar, and some quite exotic) into the mix.
The first members of our family to emigrate from Russia to the United States came in the early 1900’s by way of Ellis Island. They settled in a Northeastern mill town and eventually started a small dairy and subsistence farm. Some of the fruit trees they planted still stand on the old homestead, and while…
…the first Kordicks in this country became proud Americans, they also left behind an appreciation for certain Old World customs and folklore that our family continues to enjoy today.
Every culture seems to have a bogeyman of sorts that is held over the heads of misbehaving children, and in Russia and several other Eastern European countries, children were raised to beware lest Baba Yaga, a rugged forest witch, seize them and gobble them up. Baba Yaga features in many famous Russian stories, often as a fearsome antagonist, yet she is also frequently portrayed as simply a wise old woman (or women, as she also may be depicted as three sisters) of the woods who serves as a guide to the heroes and heroines of folklore.
Baba Yaga's Apples of Eternal Youth story
Like many apple growers of the last century, we have deliberately branded our apples with an eye-catching logo and artwork. 20th Century fruit crate labels are now collectibles, sought after for the evocative art that was meant to catch consumers’ eyes on city streets and entice them to gravitate towards one grower’s fruits over another’s.
There is a Baba Yaga fairy tale about a quest for golden apples that bring eternal youth to those that possess them, and it was this story that inspired us to stylize our…
…apples as “Baba Yaga’s Apples of Eternal Youth,” and to come up with our own version of the story, as well as revive the old fruit crate label tradition.
We worked with Greensboro-based artist Liz McKinnon (www.heartshinestudios.com) to design a watercolor illustration of Baba Yaga with the famed apples, not in Old World Russia, but in our neck of the North Carolina foothills. As the crow flies, Kordick Family Farm is about 15 minutes north of Pilot Mountain, and we have a postcard view of the knob from the center of our property. To our west lie the Blue Ridge Mountains, while the Sauratown range borders us to the east. The Dan River is mere minutes away to the south of the farm.
Our Apple Cider Syrup
It takes a long time for large apple trees to start bearing fruit, period. And if you’re trying to grow apples in the Southeast, it takes an even longer time to hit upon the right mix of practices to produce fruit of consistently high quality. This means we’ve had a lot of time to think about what we want to do with our apples, and smaller quantities of fruit to play around with. In this manner, we created our flagship product: Baba Yaga’s Apple Cider Syrup.
Much like hard cider, apple cider syrup was …
…an American staple in past centuries, a stable, homegrown sweetener that had endless uses. However, with the advent of alternative sweeteners and more diverse crop varieties, cider syrup all but disappeared from the pantry.
When we became interested in re-introducing cider syrup, we sought out the local Southern experts: sorghum syrup producers. A very generous, close-knit community, our new friends taught us the sorghum syrup-making process and helped us adapt it to cider syrup.
Starting with 100% apple juice (cider), we boil enormous pans over a wood fire for hours until it is reduced to about a 1/10 of the original volume. At this point, the sugars have concentrated to form a thickened syrup that is wonderfully fragrant and tangy in apple flavor, and is ready for . . . almost anything.
Really. It is actually easier and infinitely quicker to list the things that cider syrup wouldn’t be good on (Fish. Well, most fish. It’s actually wonderful on salmon!). The most obvious, and hard-to-beat, application is to pour cider syrup over pancakes, biscuits, and other breakfast pastries. Perhaps the most unexpected use, however, is to make a braise or sauce for savory items like pork roast or sweet potato gratin/casserole. It even pairs well with salads in the form of a vinaigrette. Try drizzling it over ice cream or yogurt, spoon it on top of oatmeal, add it to popcorn . . . Beverage-wise, you can make an instant cup of hot cider by adding about 4 Tbsp (or to taste) cider syrup to a cup of hot water. Add a shot of brandy or rum to your cup, or add cider syrup to any number of cocktails and mixed drinks. Finally, cider syrup can be used in baking, much like maple syrup.
Apple cider syrup is a staple that never should have left the American kitchen.
Our GROWING PRACTICES
Like many unconventional farmers, we have struggled to find a term that describes our growing practices, while also communicating in a single word our management philosophy to consumers. ‘Natural’ and ‘sustainable’ mean nothing without context. ‘Low-spray’ can be used by growers who spray conventional chemicals, but at their lowest possible application rates. Most of the materials we apply happen to be approved by OMRI (the Organic Materials Review Institute), however, use of the term ‘organic’ implies certification, which we are not. We are beyond organic at this point in our growing careers, and have finally settled on the term, ‘holistic,’ in the sense championed by Michael Phillips (http://www.groworganicapples.com).
Over the years we have found the most widely available commercial formulations of organic chemicals tend to have one thing in common: it’s not so much that they work well against pests and disease and truly promote good crop health; more so, it’s that they do no harm. Low efficacy coupled with premium price tags just doesn’t cut it on our farm, and after losing apple crop after apple crop in spite of our diligent lockstep organic program, we decided we needed to find a better way to grow. We think we’ve found it. To large extent, we have stopped thinking like conventional and conventional organic growers, who are mostly concerned with preempting pest and disease pressure with preventative chemical sprays, as well as responding with curative formulations once pest and disease pressure is in evidence.
Instead, we focus on cultivating trees, and indeed, an orchard environment, of such optimal overall health that it is not as sensitive to a disease or pest outbreak, not unlike a person who eats healthy, doesn’t try to sterilize everything in sight, but maintains good hygiene, and thus is much less likely to be laid up by the latest bug going around. To that end, we nurture the root zone environment with inputs like hay and wood chips to promote a healthy fungal ecosystem that gives tree roots access to all manner of good nutrition. We also regularly apply beneficial microbes, along with fatty oils for them to feed on, to promote canopy colonization by species that work symbiotically with the tree, again to the end of excellent nutritive uptake, while also taking up space that might otherwise be “infected” by “bad” bacterial species that cause disease. And as we transition to this new way of growing, we do spray the occasional broad spectrum knockdown like copper or PerCarb, though not anywhere near as often as we did in the past, and for different purpose. Using the aforementioned chemicals as an example, when we come in and sanitize the fungal and bacterial populations with a tree spray, we don’t leave it that way and then try to maintain a sterile environment with regular subsequent sprays. What we want is to start with a clean slate for an application of beneficial microbes and to nurture this population for as long as possible. It’s all about using your tools wisely, and as it gets harder and harder to grow fruit period, we need an effective grower’s toolbox.
This is not our great-grandparents’ farmstead orchard. In the early and mid 20th Century, they simply did not have the disease and pest pressures that have spread with globalization. Also, people back then did not put quite so high a premium on fresh fruit appearance. Nowadays there are so many potential and wide-ranging issues to worry about it makes our heads spin. Unsurprisingly, the West Coast of the United States is a much more ideal environment for growing apples in general, and organic apples in particular. Plum curculio, one of the hardest pests for organic East Coast growers to control, doesn’t occur in the western half of North America, and until recently, fireblight, a devastating bacterial disease on the East Coast, wasn’t an issue either. Throwing in the endemic fungal disease smorgasbord of the humid South makes it especially tricky, to say the least, for apple growers in the Southeast who are trying to maintain a remotely organic orchard.
A lot goes into orchard management. As mentioned above, we mulch with hay whenever possible for weed suppression and cultivation of a healthy root zone. We utilize untreated trap crops and sacrifice the fruit to certain pests in the hope that it prevents them from entering the orchard proper and causing damage. We collect fallen apples and diseased prunings for burning so they don’t serve as vectors for future pest and disease development. In short, we do everything we can to reduce the need to spray — indeed, it’s a rare grower who is enthusiastic about spraying anything. Whether you’re spraying conventional or unconventional nutrients, pesticides, fungicides, herbicides, or even beneficial bacteria, it’s a time-consuming, fuel-eating, equipment-wearing hassle, and often a very expensive and potentially dangerous one. If a farmer is spraying anything, it’s because he or she truly thinks their crop and livelihood depends on it. Talk to us — most farmers would love a chance to have an honest discussion about growing practices rather than be bound by the are-you-organic-or-not litmus test.
Organic chemicals and materials can be abused as much as conventional ones, can be just as bad for pollinators, and can also accumulate to the detriment of the environment. In addition, decreased efficacy often means increased application. You can go out of your way to avoid synthetic chemicals derived from fossil fuels, but if you have to spend more time on your tractor burning fuel and compacting the soil in order to apply them, is that sustainable? Rather than lecture you on our definition of sustainability, we will keep an updated list on this website of what we spray and why, as well as this discussion of practices, as it evolves, and you can decide for yourself if this meets your definition of sustainability
We maintain mason bee houses in the orchard, as well as honeybees and pastured rabbits. If we wear any safety clothing/masks while spraying, it’s generally to keep from getting soaked and filthy. We don’t spray anything that we consider unsafe to our bees, livestock, or ourselves.
PerCarb: Basically, an OMRI-listed hydrogen peroxide that kills bacteria and fungi. We use this in the early spring as a broad knock-down to help create a blank slate for our subsequent beneficial bacteria applications.
Nordox WP: an OMRI-listed slow-release copper formulation that kills bacteria and fungi, and also helps prevent frost molecules from forming. Applied once in the spring pre-bloom to give us some protection when the trees are most vulnerable to infections and frost damage.
AgriPhage: an OMRI-listed bacteriophage that is specific to the bacterium responsible for fireblight. After several years of steadily increasing fireblight pressure in the orchard, we are very excited to try out AgriPhage pre-bloom and during bloom in 2021.
Core Holistic Spray: a rotating cocktail applied ten or more times a growing season for nutrition and disease/pest prevention, including some or all of the following — Ahimsa pure neem oil (OMRI-listed)*, Ahimsa karanja oil (OMRI-listed), EM-1 beneficial microbes (OMRI-listed, and brewed on-farm from a mother culture), SeaCrop sea minerals (OMRI-listed), AEA Micropak trace minerals (OMRI-listed), Charley’s Soap (a locally-made, environmentally-friendly soap that we use to help emulsify the brew components)
AEA Holocal: OMRI-listed supplemental calcium that is applied to fruit to make it less susceptible to bitter rot and leaf spot (Glomerella species), the latest scourge of Southern apple growers
Silmatrix: OMRI-listed supplemental silicon that helps boost the plant’s cuticle defenses and prevent “bad stuff” from getting in the front door
Xentari Bt: an OMRI-listed, specifically honeybee-friendly, Bt, or Bacillus thuringiensis, that attacks certain insect larvae
Surround WP: “that white stuff all over trees,” an OMRI-listed refined kaolin clay applied several times a season to discourage pests like plum curculio, and also to prevent sunscald on developing fruit
Venerate: an OMRI-listed pesticide derived from heat-killed Burkholderia species that attacks the exoskeletons of our very-hard-to-kill nemesis, plum curculio
Delegate: a synthetic spinetoram similar to the OMRI-listed, and frankly unaffordable at $455/quart, spinosad, Entrust, that we rotate with Venerate to help control plum curculio
Isomate mating disruptors: OMRI-listed dispensers that are hung from tree canopies to release mating pheromones of certain pests to make it harder to find each other and reproduce within the orchard.
NemAttack beneficial nematodes: OMRI-listed Steinernema carpocapsae nematodes are microscopic worms that inhabit the soil and parasitize weavils among other pest insects, and we’re hoping, will help to control the worst weavil in our book, plum curculio. Applied in 2019.
Quantum Light: a supplement to our EM-1 beneficial microbes, which are primarily composed of lactic acid bacteria. Quantum Light contains “the purple guys,” varieties of photosynthetic bacteria, which colonize apple leaves when applied, and help make nutrients available for the trees specifically via photosynthesis.
Lime Sulfur: OMRI-listed, but our least favorite thing in the world to spray! It is very caustic and can cause severe corrosion on equipment and our persons (burns), but it is very useful when severe broad-spectrum disease clean-up is needed in the orchard. Can also be used as to thin blossoms during bloomtime, but of course, it also kills beneficial fungi and bacteria. For that reason, it is often used pre-beneficial biological applications to create a blank slate to start from.
*In 2021, we will switch from using Ahimsa pure neem oil in our core holistic spray to TerraMerra’s TerraNeem, an OMRI-listed 85% neem formulation with significantly higher azadirachtin, the chemical compound found in neem oil that is responsible for its insecticidal properties. After a particularly bad aphid year in 2020, we feel the need to beef up our core holistic spray a notch, while still providing most of the fatty acids that support our EM-1 beneficial bacteria
Got questions or concerns? Check out our contact info further down on this page and drop us a line.
Ah, April, when the early apple trees enter petal fall stage, fruitlets begin to develop . . . and plum curculio (Conotrachelus nenuphar) rears its ugly, little head. Plum curculio may be tiny, usually only a quarter of an inch or less in length, but it causes bigtime damage in Eastern fruit orchards every year. There are many growers who are organic in every way, save the exceptions they make to combat plum curculio. A hard-bodied, extremely tenacious weevil, its modus operandi is to overwinter in the woods surrounding orchards, then move into the orchard proper at petal fall with the goal of laying as many eggs as possible in developing fruits.
The larvae develop inside the fruitlets, causing damage one of two ways: 1) the larvae fully develop, secreting certain chemicals that make the fruitlet drop to the ground, where the grown larvae can penetrate the soil to complete the life cycle, or 2) the larvae may be crushed to death as the young fruitlet grows rapidly, leaving the initial damage from the egg deposit as a gateway for other pests and diseases. Either way, they are a major, major headache that growers have been battling for a century or more. There are neat photographs of early twentieth century growers out with large teams, literally beating the trees to shake the curculio adults onto sheets spread below the trees, to be removed from the orchard for certain destruction.
The key to controlling plum curculio is stopping the population cycle — you want to reduce the number of egg-laying adults that you will have to combat the next year, so most of the time, you’re actually targeting the larvae themselves in a number of ways.
We have planted trap crops of early-fruiting plum and peach trees so we can sacrifice the fruit to the plum curculio and target the larvae before they move into the later-fruiting apples. Sound theory, but it doesn’t always work so well since, in this area, cold springs often preclude peach, and especially plum, fruitset. So most of the plum curculio probably make it past the trap crop in any given year to the orchard proper.
The next line of defense is to apply coats of refined kaolin clay to your trees. The clay particles slough off onto curculios making their way into the trees, getting into all their orifices and irritating them. The idea is to convince them that our apple trees are just not worth the pain and suffering. But in order to be effective, kaolin clay has to be applied in a heavy and consistent enough layer, easier said than done around bloomtime, when growers are busiest and the weather is rainiest (the clay will wash off in rain, so many layers are required).
So historically, many adults do succeed in their raison d’etre, to deposit their eggs under the skin of our new apples. But we still need to target the larvae in order to prevent a larger repeat of this whole cycle the next year. One thing we are experimenting with this year is to apply parasitic nematodes to the soil beneath trees, where they will happily gobble up plum curculio larvae after they penetrate the soil.
We only have a few apple varieties at the petal fall stage right now, but in the last two days, have casually stumbled upon two plum curculio adults in the central orchard. Scary stuff, indicative of a very large population that is up on its game. This year we will also be applying Venerate, an OMRI-approved formulation of heat-killed bacteria, which secrete natural, exoskeleton-targeting toxins that interrupt the plum curculios’ molting process, leading to death. We’ll have to wait out the rain for the next three days, and keep our fingers crossed that we’re not too late.
Summer Work — that means keeping up with orchard floor maintenance and spraying, tending our newly grafted trees, and in this apple-less year, a lot more varied tasks than we usually have time for, such as tree training and summer pruning. Plus, it’s time to plant all those great summer crops like pumpkins, gourds, broom corn, etc.!
This pile of stuff was once an enormous 100 year-old cider press, and soon it will be again . . . when we find the time and space to get it up and running again. Stay tuned. For now, it’s a sight to see, with all its fascinating nuts and bolts (and massive pulleys) on display in the orchard packhouse.
We’re open, and it’s grand! The farm’s old tobacco packhouse has finally begun its new life as our orchard packhouse and store, full of fresh apples, jams, jellies, cider syrup, and more. In the orchard we have potted heirloom apple trees of various sizes for sale. Open in summer 2021 by appointment. Please call us at (336) 351-5186 or email us at email@example.com if you’d like to visit.
Can’t make it to our orchard packhouse? Want to purchase some of our products with a credit card? We are pleased to announce that our Etsy store is open for business! We are not currently selling any fresh fruit via Etsy, but you can find many of our other orchard products for sale there. Click this link to visit KordickFamilyFarm on Etsy!
GO FLY A KITE AT OUR APPLE BLOSSOM OPEN HOUSE !
We will be hosting a limited number of events at Kordick Family Farm in 2021, including a spring open house day on April 10th from 11 am – 4 pm! The breeze is always blowing in from the Blue Ridge at KFF, and that means fantastic conditions for kite-flying! Throw in the background of a fragrant blooming orchard, and you’re talking about a really nice way to spend a spring day.
We challenge kids of all ages, adults included, professional kiters and kite enthusiasts to bring your own kites, homemade or storebought, and do some high-flying in the open land surrounding our orchard. Our Apple Blossom King and Queen will be awarding prizes for categories including Most Original Homemade Kite and Prettiest Kite (the official competition will be from 12 pm – 2pm).
When not cruising the skies, or watching others do so, we welcome you to stroll and take in the blooming orchard in all its glory. Feel free to bring picnics! Cameron’s Cookies will be on-site with sweet treats and pink lemonade for sale. Pre-picked bouquets of apple blossoms and potted heirloom apple trees will be for sale in the orchard. The packhouse will be wide open, as well, and stocked with Apple Blossom Jelly, Apple Butter, Apple Cider Syrup, and more.
ADMISSION: No admission fee (PLEASE NOTE, WE CAN ONLY ACCEPT CASH OR CHECK AT KFF!)
Dog-owners, please note, WE DO NOT ALLOW PETS AT KORDICK FAMILY FARM, for the safety and health of the public and your animals, as well as our own.
*The current forecast is for some occasional rain and late afternoon thunderstorms, but we are going ahead with this event, rain, shine, or storm, and keeping our fingers crossed for a decent day overall.
KORDICK FAMILY FARM, HOME TO THE NEWEST WEATHER STATION ON THE BLOCK!
Thanks in large part to an NC AgVentures grant, we installed a RainWise weather station at the orchard in winter 2021. Having such site-specific weather data at our fingertips will help us make better management decisions. And since our information is public, local gardeners and growers can also benefit.
Check out our current weather conditions via our RainWiseNet webpage!
Check out our local pest and disease forecasts via our NEWA (Network for Environmental and Weather Applications) webpage!
Let me tell you ’bout the birds and the bees, and the flowers and the trees . . . We may not have many apples in the trees right now, but much to our delight, the first honeybee swarm we’ve seen this season cropped up in one of our ‘Red Gravensteins’ a couple weeks ago, yet another later-than-average milestone in this cool spring. As temperatures trended cooler than average for most of May, some reports of diminished tree fruit loads are coming in throughout the Southeast, and we’re sorry to confirm that our orchard will be essentially apple-free this year.
Yet even if an orchard is fruitless, the work of tending the trees is business as usual to large extent, with an eye always focused on the season to come. The lack of an apple payload isn’t a strong incentive to go overboard on labor, maintenence and inputs, and many orchardists desperate to cut costs in a non-apple year do opt to forgo regular spraying and maintenance. However, in doing so, you run the risk of compounding your problems the following season if unchecked pest and disease pressure explodes.
At the same time, while we would much prefer to look forward to a year of apples in hatfuls, capfuls, and three-cornered sackfuls, as the old wassail song goes, a fruit-less year is nonetheless an opportunity. For one thing, our trees will get a chance to fully recover from the twin ravages of fireblight and periodical cicadas in 2020. Also, since we won’t be focusing laser-like on this year’s fruit at all costs, we will have more time to spend on the trees themselves, and improving our orchard system in general. Finally, so long as we don’t abandon pest and disease control altogether this year, we can look forward to a fairly clean slate next season, since so much disease and pest pressure derives from incoculum contained in or on fruit, and we will be essentially breaking the disease cycle.
So at Kordick Family Farm we’re as busy ever, trying to keep up with mowing, tree training, planting out graftlings, and yes, spraying. A frequent misconception in organic agriculture is that spraying does not occur and the crop is simply left alone to grow as “naturally” as possible, without supplemental feeding or conditioning. In actuality, this is seldom the case on commercial scale since we need to stive for at least some consistency of quality and quantity in order to attempt to make a living. While we may forgo conventional chemicals, we do apply a number of organic materials to our orchard and vegetable crops, and we are always working towards building the soil and improving biodiversity on the farm. The end result we’re going for is an ecosystem that does a lot of the balancing on its own, with as little help from us as possible.
This ideal seems remote at the busy moment, but it’s something to strive for in the long game, and we can see it already at work in some ways. When the population of voles, which have a destructive tendency to girdle trees and gnaw roots, is on the upswing, we’ll run into more black snakes for a while. When periodical cicadas strike, more birds descend (during last year’s cicada invasion, a neighbor reported his first cherry crop in about 17 years, since for once, the birds were drawn to something other than his cherries). Then there are the resident woodchucks . . . I’m still drawing a blank as far as what purpose they serve in Eden. The ideal management balance extends to disease, as well. We strive to maximize our beneficial bacterial populations in the orchard, in part so that, when “bad” bacteria invade, they’re crowded out, or consumed, or outcompeted before infections can take root.
While many of our weekly to bi-weekly sprays are targeted towards controlling specific pests and diseases, the primary concern in any organic orchard is the overall holistic health of the trees. To that end, our regular sprays are a beneficial cocktail of components designed to promote a diverse population of microbes in the soil and canopy, as well as provide our trees with plenty of nutrients and micronutrients, thus giving them a healthy edge in life. Ingredients in our holistic spray mix include seaweed extracts, micronutrient blends, and plain old Seventh Generation dish soap, to emulsify the whole mix. Also, week in, week out during the growing season we apply an assortment of beneficial microbes that augment photosynthesis, make nutrients plant-available, and outcompete pathogenic bacteria.
We raise most of our beneficial bacteria by the barrel-ful, plying it with molasses and humic acid, maintaining temperatures to promote different growth phases, and otherwise tending it as lovingly and diligently as one’s favorite sourdough starter. Our spray mixes also include neem oil and karanja oil, which contain a wide spectrum of fatty acids that are singularly beneficial to the trees, as well as a prime food source for our probiotic bacteria. From rearing to feeding to tending their environment, cultivating a diverse population of beneficial orchard bacteria is actually a lot like maintaining a herd of microscopic livestock.
I had no idea what I was getting myself into when I selected ‘May Apple’ as a particularly appropriate feature for the month of May. Some apples are really fun to follow as the names twist and turn through history almost like a centuries-strong telephone game. Others make you want to beat your head against the wall as you struggle to make sense of it all. ‘May Apple’ may be the ultimate historical disconnect in this regard as modern researchers have struggled to discern cultural connections all but lost to the past.
I went into this feature with the forgiveable and common assumption that, since the ‘May Apple’ is known to be among the earliest ripening apples of the calendar year, even earlier than ‘June Apples,’ that, of course, it is so-named because it ripens in May, end of story. And, in fact, that pretty much is the derivation of the name, ‘May Apple,’ but arriving at it is also truly the end of the tale, not the beginning. I’ve come to believe that one must earn the right to call ‘May Apple’ ‘May Apple.’ At any rate, this sounded to me like a no muss, no fuss, easy-as-apple-pie, phone-it-in feature. However, after only a little surface scratching, I was surprised to find that a synonym for ‘May Apple’ is ‘Juneating.’ The plot of the convoluted story thickened up fast.
Thought to hail originally from Middle Age England, ‘May Apple’ was originally known as ‘Genniting’ . . . or an approximated spelling along these lines, as you’ll hopefully come to understand. As the apple migrated through space and time, the apple acquired a host of phonetically bastardized pseudonyms, including ‘Gennetting,’ ‘Joaneting,’ ‘Juneating,’ and ‘Yellow June.’ But since ‘Genniting’ is where the story begins, so shall we.
Francis Bacon first mentioned the apple in an essay published in the early 1600s called ‘Of Gardens,’ so we can assume that the variety was well-established at this point, and so its beginning, in fact, would date even earlier. Incidentally, there exist some beautifully illuminated editions of Bacon’s ‘Of Gardens’, including the 19th Century presentation copy, pictured above, which was created for English Queen-consort Alexandra. Waxing poetic on the pleasures of the garden year, Bacon rhapsodizes about the month of July, which brings “gilliflowers of all varieties, musk roses, the lime tree in blossom, early pears and plums in fruit, gennitings, cod- lins.” However, the original spelling is in some doubt, and phonetic re- interpretation may have been afoot with regards to our variety even by Bacon’s time.
Subsequently, a variety of related names all referring to an early, yellow-green, ill-keeping apple peppered Middle Age publications: Gervaise Markham, in an English cookbook from 1613 refers to ‘Ieniting’ apples. John Parkinson mentions ‘Geneting’ in his 1629 gardening tome ‘Paradisi in Sole,’ considered to be the first horticultural book proper. In 1659 Sir Thomas Hanmer discusses Janetting apples in ‘The Garden Book.’ In ‘Flora Ceres & Pomona’ published in 1665, John Rea describes ‘Juniting’ as “a small, yellow, red-sided apple, upon a wall, ripe in the end of June.”
The confusion over whether these were all the same apples, and what their names derived from in any case, mounted and festered over the centuries. Dr. Robert Hogg, a Scottish pomologist and author of ‘The Fruit Manual: Containing The Descriptions And Synonyms Of The Fruits And Fruit Trees Of Great Britain,’ published in 1884, was apparently the first person to really attempt to make sense of this nomenclature mess. Suffice to say, Dr. Hogg came up with a fascinating theory behind the name, which he considered most properly spelled, ‘Joaneting.’
Dr. Hogg concluded that our apple earned its moniker thanks to the very beginning of its annually anticipated ripening around June 24th, or Saint John’s Day, the feast day commemorating the birth of Saint John the Baptist. Latin being more in vogue in the 17th Century than it is now, Joannet would have been a stand-in for “John,” and it was very common in the Middle Ages for names to reflect their timing relative to the numerous Christian feast days. Hence, ‘Joaneting,’ would have been the root of distortion to Genneting, Ieniting (Iannis after the Greek for John), Janetting, etc. Dr. Hogg also bemoans the further distortion of the name to ‘Juneating,’ noting that one “Abercrombie was the first who wrote it June-eating, as if in allusion to the period of its maturity, which is, however, not till the end of July.” (You must further understand that in 1752 Britain changed from the Julian calendar to the Gregorian calendar, hence offering some explanation for the disparity of ripening dates, from June to August, assigned to our apple.)
But this was a story about Alice’s Restaurant, er, the ‘May Apple’ — remember the ‘May Apple’? Amusingly, this already centuries-old name game played out in almost exactly the same manner once The-Apple-in-Question arrived stateside. While there was apparent precedent for our apple to be called ‘Juneating’ thanks to this Abercrombie fellow, odds are that when the apple came ashore on this side of the pond, it did so as ‘Joaneting’ due to Dr. Hogg’s efforts. That’s how we’ll refer to it for the time being, anyway.
Now until the particularly precocious ‘Yellow Transparent’ became widely grown in America, ‘Joaneting’ had the distinction of being the earliest apple to ripen stateside, as early as late May in some climates, but certainly by early June in much of the South, hence the unsurprising and independent stretch of the name from ‘Joaneting’ to ‘Juneating,’ reflecting its primary American season, and definitively obliterating any of its significance relative to the religious calendar of the early Middle Ages.
Of course, another popular and early Southern apple is the so-called ‘June Apple,’ of which ‘Early Harvest’ is a prime varietal example. So our poor apple, by now commonly known as ‘Juneating,’ being tart and pale green to light yellow, generally a ringer for ‘Early Harvest’ in flavor and appearance, and ripening only a couple weeks earlier, acquired yet another alias when nurseries misidentified and propagated it as the entirely distinct ‘Early Harvest’ apple. And like those ‘June Apples,’ the season for ‘Juneating’ aka ‘Joaneting’ aka WHATEVER!!! is fleeting. The white, tender flesh softens quickly as the fruit ripens, turning mealy if not enjoyed or canned promptly.
Nevertheless, the name, ‘May Apple,’ with its own subtle variations (‘Yellow May,’ May Yellow,’ ‘Early May,’ ‘White May,’ ‘May Pippin,’ etc.) proliferated, as well, no doubt, to distinguish it as earlier than your average ‘June Apple.’ Lee Calhoun reports that it came to be listed in 81 Southern nursery catalogs as either ‘May’ or ‘May Apple,’ and the name certainly acquired colloquial prominence among Southerners in general.
In our orchard, we favor the ‘May Apple’ name over all others simply because until I sat down and wrote this feature we didn’t know any better! However, we will continue to do so in order to emphasize the variety’s earliness compared with our ‘Early Harvest’ June apples. We are a couple years away from tasting this well-regarded and well-traveled ancient fruit, as only last winter we planted 5 trees in our new orchard, but anticipations are high, given the 400 plus years of favor ‘May Apple’ has to recommend it. Then again, how bad would the first fresh apple of the year have to taste for someone not to get excited over it?
A customer called in a panic the other week, wanting to know if she could come immediately to buy six more bottles of apple cider syrup. Sure, we said, bemused, but asked what in the world she needed that much apple cider syrup for. She replied that she was in the habit of making large batches of granola for her family’s daily breakfasts, and she was clean out. It never ceases to amaze us how many varied uses you all have come up with for apple cider syrup, and we love adding them to our suggested-uses-for-cider-syrup list.
We also are big fans of using apple cider syrup in granola. Not only does it work well as a slight sweetener and binder, but the tart apple flavor comes through in a wonderful way. In fact, for years we have fine-tuned our own recipe, and hope to have KFF granola available for sale sometime soon. In the meantime, since our customer was kind enough to share her recipe with us, we decided to make it our feature this month.
4 cups old-fashioned oats
1.5 cups raw nuts and/or seeds (say, 1 cup pecans and 1/2 cup pumpkin seeds)
1 teaspoon fine-grain sea salt (if you’re using standard table salt, scale back to 1/2 teaspoon)
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
heavy dusting of allspice
1/2 cup melted coconut oil
1/2 cup apple cider syrup
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 cup unsweetened coconut flakes — add halfway through baking
1 cup dried fruit, chopped if large (dried cherries and chopped dates) — add after cooled
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F and line a large, rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. In a large mixing bowl, combine oats, nuts and/or seeds, salt and cinnamon. Stir to blend.
Pour in the oil, syrup and vanilla. Mix well, until every oat and nut is lightly coated. Pour the granola onto your prepared pan and use a large spoon to spread it in an even layer.
Bake until lightly golden, for 15 minutes. Add the coconut and stir, then press mixture down flat evenly in the pan. Place back in oven and let temperature return to 350 degrees if needed. Turn oven off and let granola slowly cool in oven undisturbed, at least one hour. The granola will further crisp up as it cools.
Remove from oven and let cool a bit. Top with the dried fruit. Break the granola into pieces with your hands if you want to retain big chunks, or stir it around with a spoon if you don’t want extra-clumpy granola.
Store the granola in an airtight container at room temperature for 1 to 2 weeks, or in a sealed freezer bag in the freezer for up to 3 months. The dried fruit can freeze solid, so let it warm to room temperature for 5 to 10 minutes before serving.
Apple cider syrup is the perfect base for a sweet and tangy barbecue sauce. This full-flavored recipe packs just a hint of heat and makes 2 cups of sauce.
1 cup Baba Yaga’s Apple Cider Syrup
1/2 cup apple cider vinegar
1/2 cup tomato paste
2 Tablespoons grated onion
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons fresh grated ginger
2 teaspoons prepared (not dry) mustard
salt to taste
dash of cayenne pepper
Whisk all ingredients together until smooth. Then you know what to do: baste all over your favorite protein and grill, bake, or broil it up.
(adapted from an Our State Magazine recipe and shared by our friend, Randy)
4 Tablespoons (or to taste) Baba Yaga’s Apple Cider Syrup
1 pound Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved
2 Tablespoons olive oil
1/2 teaspoon salt
pepper to taste
1 large, decent apple, peeled, cored, and cut into cubes
(the original recipe calls for Granny Smith or Honeycrisp apples)
Preheat oven to 400°. In a large mixing bowl, toss Brussels sprouts with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Spread on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Roast for 15 minutes, tossing once during cooking time.
Remove sprouts from oven, then toss them in the cider syrup and add apples. Spread the sprouts and apples back on baking sheet and return to oven for 10 minutes or until tender. Check seasoning; add salt and pepper to taste. Serve hot or at room temperature.
Reminiscent of lemon meringue pie!
1 cup Baba Yaga’s Cider Syrup
3/4 cup milk
1/3 cup sugar
3 Tablespoons flour
1 standard pie crust
Mix all ingredients together with handbeater or blender until smooth. Pour into crust and bake at 350 degrees about 45 minutes, until set and slightly browned on top.
Makes about 75 pieces of decadent apple candy!
2 cups cream (heavy, whipping, or even coconut)
1 cup light corn syrup
2 cups sugar
1/2 cup Baba Yaga’s Cider Syrup
6 Tablespoons butter
1/2 teaspoon salt
spices (1/2 teaspoon cinnamon, 1/4 teaspoon ginger, 1/8 teaspoon allspice, and 1/8 teaspoon nutmeg)
Lightly grease an 8 inch by 8 inch baking pan and line with parchment paper, leaving an overhang on all sides.
In a heavy-bottomed pot, combine cream, corn syrup, sugar, cider syrup, and butter. On high heat, bring to a boil, stirring only until sugar dissolves.
Reduce to medium-high heat and cook without stirring until the temperature reaches 248 degrees on a candy thermometer, about 30 minutes. Remove the pan from heat and stir in salt and spices.
Pour into the lined pan and let sit at room temperature for about 18 hours without disturbing.
Remove from pan and cut into desired bite-sizes (about 3/4 inch square). Cut 6 inch squares of parchment paper and wrap each caramel, twisting the ends of the paper to close.
4 medium sweet potatoes
2 medium apples
4 Tbsp. butter or non-dairy substitute
1/3 cup Baba Yaga’s Apple Cider Syrup
1/2 tsp. salt
Place sheet of aluminum foil on bottom oven rack. Position second oven rack in middle of oven. Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.
Wash sweet potatoes and make a small slit on one side of each potato. Place potatoes directly on middle oven rack, slit side up. Bake 45-60 minutes or until soft. Remove from oven and let cool slightly. Decrease oven temperature to 350 degrees F.
While potatoes are baking, core, peel and slice apples 1/4 inch thick. Saute apple slices in 2 Tbsp. butter or substitute until tender. Set aside.
Peel cooked sweet potatoes and place in bowl. Mash together with remaining 2 Tbsp. butter or substitute, apple cider syrup, and salt. Stir in cooked apples.
Place sweet potato-apple mixture in ovenproof baking dish and cover with lid or foil. Bake 25-30 minutes.
8 cups of plain popped corn, unsalted
1 cup white sugar
1/3 cup Baba Yaga’s Apple Cider Syrup
2 tsp. vegetable oil
1/4 tsp. salt
Prepare a large, rimmed baking sheet by lightly oiling or lining with parchment paper. Set aside.
Place popped corn in large glass or ceramic bowl (not plastic). Bowl should be large enough so popcorn can be stirred easily without spilling over. Set aside.
Combine sugar, cider syrup, oil, and salt in small saucepan. Mix well.
Cook over medium-high heat, stirring often, until a candy thermometer registers 290 degrees F, about 6-8 minutes.
Remove from heat and pour over the popcorn. Quickly stir popcorn with spatula to coat evenly.
Transfer to the prepared baking sheet and spread coated popcorn to cool.
When cold, break into small pieces and store in airtight container.
1/3 cup olive oil
1 tsp. minced shallot
1/4 cup Baba Yaga’s Apple Cider Syrup
2 Tbsp. finely chopped peeled apple
1/4 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. ground pepper
Combine all ingredients in a food processor or blender. Blend until smooth.
Serve over salad greens with sliced red onion and thin wedges of apples, or your favorite salad.
Forget about molasses — apple cider syrup adds outstanding flavor to our favorite picnic food. This recipe will make about 6-8 servings as a side dish.
1 lb. dried beans (California pea, Navy, Great Northern)
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 cup Baba Yaga’s Apple Cider Syrup
4 Tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon dry mustard
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
2 teaspoons salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
1 medium onion, cut in half from top to bottom
1 large, firm apple, peeled, cored, and diced into small pieces
Soak the beans overnight in enough water to cover them by 2 inches. The next day, drain them and place in a pot with the baking soda plus enough water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer, uncovered, for 20 minutes, skimming any foam off as needed. Remove 1 cup of cooking water and set aside. Drain and rinse the beans, then place in a bean pot or slow cooker with onion halves.
Combine the syrup, sugar, mustard, ginger, salt and pepper. Gradually stir in the reserved cooking water. Pour over the beans and onions. Bake, covered, at 300 degrees in the bean pot, for 6-7 hours, or until done, stirring occasionally. A slow cooker will take about 6 hours, still covered and stirring occasionally. Add the diced apple during the last hour of cooking. If saucier beans are desired, add small amounts of water as needed.
Our orchard is located at 1259 Joyce Acres Road in Westfield, NC 27053.
Directions from Pilot Mountain:
Traveling on US-52 North, take the exit 134 for Pilot Mountain, NC-268. Enter roundabout and exit to the first right onto S. Key St./NC-268. Take a left at the CVS stoplight to continue on NC-268. Turn right on Old Westfield Road. After about 6.5 miles Old Westfield Road dead-ends into NC-89. Take a right onto NC-89 at the stoplight. Go 3 miles, then take a left onto Frans Road. After a mile, take a left at the stop sign to continue on Frans Road. Take the first right onto Christian Road. Take the first right onto Joyce Acres Road and travel 1 mile to reach 1259.
Directions from Francisco:
Traveling west on NC-89, take a right onto Asbury Road. At the stop sign, take a left to continue on Asbury Road. After about a half a mile, take a left onto Joyce Acres Road, and travel about a half a mile to reach 1259.